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Tutorial: How To Use Manual Engine Controls


how do you keep the radiator closed i try to keep it at zero but soon as let go of the button it goes back to 50% help

In your controls, make sure the key is set to "Relative Control:  Yes"

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  • 4 weeks later...

Anybody knows on what alt you need to change the gear for Griffon 22?

 

 

Also, what is the engine variant for Griff 22? Griffon 57, 61.....?

Switch to cockpit view and look on the right for the boost gauge. As a general rule, during climbing you can switch to it occasionally and check the guage. If it starts going into the red zone or low levels when using WEP, switch to the next gear. Don't forget to change down the gear if you drop altitude for whatever reason. It won't kill your engine, but it'll reduce power available.
With WEP, the 'critical altitude' for each gear is higher than if you were going at just 100%.

As for engine variant....no idea myself.

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Hey theOrangeDoom,

i like your MEC tutorial very much, exspecially your thread.
I am planning to make a german video about it. In addition i want to make a MEC thread in the german section too.

Can i use your thread and translate it? Of course i will mention that i used your stuff and put links into it :salute:

Best regards,
DerMandant
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Switch to cockpit view and look on the right for the boost gauge. As a general rule, during climbing you can switch to it occasionally and check the guage. If it starts going into the red zone or low levels when using WEP, switch to the next gear. Don't forget to change down the gear if you drop altitude for whatever reason. It won't kill your engine, but it'll reduce power available.
With WEP, the 'critical altitude' for each gear is higher than if you were going at just 100%.

As for engine variant....no idea myself.

Yeah, i got it. 4600m. Thanks. :salute:

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Hey theOrangeDoom,

i like your MEC tutorial very much, exspecially your thread.
I am planning to make a german video about it. In addition i want to make a MEC thread in the german section too.

Can i use your thread and translate it? Of course i will mention that i used your stuff and put links into it :salute:

Best regards,
DerMandant

natürlich ;)
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What prop pitch am I supposed to use on the yaks? No matter what I put them at I overev the engine also I have a tendency to wep so I am not getting the wep go until the coolant is hot .
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What prop pitch am I supposed to use on the yaks? No matter what I put them at I overev the engine also I have a tendency to wep so I am not getting the wep go until the coolant is hot .

Get your prop pitch controls with your throttle controls so what the means is when you are lowering your thr you are at the same time lowering your prop pitch.

 

As for overrevving, it will happen if you put too much mix into the engine. 45-50 is the sweet spot.

 

Also make sure that you change the gear for Klimov engine.

Edited by TA4Life
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Just asking how does my fuel.mixture affect my engine reving speed well i am an undergraduate at electronics so don't expect much can you please help me with that question?
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I know WT current state of thermodynamics (or shall I say the lack of) is quite crippling, but I got a few points/questions about that:

 

1) Since we are not talking about a GA plane like a C-152 with full mixture control, but a warbird such as the P-47 or the P-51, I don't understand why we have such fine mixture control. Stang and Bolt have (except WEP special condition) only "auto-lean and auto-rich", which doesn't allow proper mixing, mostly because it was automatic. No reason to bother a pilot with that in a dogfight.

 

2) Same apply with prop pitch. Actually, manifold pressure is what dictates prop pitch setting. You should have [radiator, "mixture toggle", manifold pressure, supercharger gear] and not what we have IG. Prop pitch is linked to M.P., and the higher the MP, the better (in exchange of heating and fuel consumption). Pilot generally have no direct control on the pitch, especially since doing it wrong could overrev the engine, while messing with the M.P. is "safer" to some extents, since you can keep the engine at nominal speed and have different thrust output.

(Note that auto pitch prop are either hydraulic or electric, but only the latter allows the pitch to be set as "feathering" after the engine (and the hydraulic pressure) is gone. That's an abuse in WT, where even though you have "no feathering control", you can still pitch at 0° and glide better)

 

3) Is rich mixture now behaving as it should, A.K.A "cooling" the engine compared to lean, mixture ? That is actually a nice way to keep the engine a little bit cooler without significant power loss. ?

 

Overall, I feel like MEC is a great addition to the game, but I also feellike what I learn for my SEP licence is not matching IG "theory", which is more "try and learn" than "it should be like this according to my knowledge".

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  • 2 weeks later...
I use M.E.C. only with the engine control, as with bombers, if one of the engines knock out or set ablaze, i would attempt to shut the engine (as it shuts the fuel pumps from pumping oil into the engine, so the fire would not have burning liquid) somehow, put out the fire, and feather the prop, so i could get out or to continue forward with as minimal damage as possible.

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I use M.E.C. only with the engine control, as with bombers, if one of the engines knock out or set ablaze, i would attempt to shut the engine (as it shuts the fuel pumps from pumping oil into the engine, so the fire would not have burning liquid) somehow, put out the fire, and feather the prop, so i could get out or to continue forward with as minimal damage as possible.


Firstly I am not a bomber pilot so I have couple of questions. Well if you feather your prop won't it force your plane to roll to one side due to unequal thrusts? And also when I hunt bombers heavy bombers like B17,24,29 I mostly try going head-on cause they have least guns or I either go at them at 600kph while concentrating all my fire at one wing so that I can set it on fire easily yes only engine fires can be put not the fuel tank ones.
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So, I have the exact same key bindings as Orange. However, whenever I press them, there are only three options (0%, 50%, and 100+%). There are no in between options, and whenever I take my finger off the key, it reverts back to the original value. I have used this on my P-47D-28 recently and is where I have encountered this problem.

There is no way for me to get values for fuel mixture such as 79% (For example). How do I fix this?

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You're supposed to turn on the relative control then you can use it to any setting you want
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  • 2 weeks later...

There is nothing to fix on the 109 E1/E3 and FW's.  When you turn on MEC (and turn off auto prop on fw's and E4 and above) it no longer has auto prop as it is a variable pitch prop, meaning you have to control the pitch 100% of the time. Just don't exceed the rpm limit for each plane, which can be seen on take-off with MEC off (for example, 2400 for the E3)

 

If you go into cockpit view on the E1/E3, you can see a knob in the middle of the dash, this is the manual prop pitch control.  If you have MEC off you will see this being adjusted constantly. 

 

On Brit, American, and Russian (at least the ones I have tested) they have a constant speed prop adjusted by a governor.  Just set the rpm that you want and the governor will do it's best to keep that rpm.  With governor's, there may be some lag time adjusting rpms, so don't slam throttle from 0 to WEP.

Edited by Beedo12

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There is nothing to fix on the 109 E1/E3 and FW's. When you turn on MEC (and turn off auto prop on fw's and E4 and above) it no longer has auto prop as it is a variable pitch prop, meaning you have to control the pitch 100% of the time. Just don't exceed the rpm limit for each plane, which can be seen on take-off with MEC off (for example, 2400 for the E3)

If you go into cockpit view on the E1/E3, you can see a knob in the middle of the dash, this is the manual prop pitch control. If you have MEC off you will see this being adjusted constantly.

On Brit, American, and Russian (at least the ones I have tested) they have a constant speed prop adjusted by a governor. Just set the rpm that you want and the governor will do it's best to keep that rpm. With governor's, there may be some lag time adjusting rpms, so don't slam throttle from 0 to WEP.



Try that in Russian aircrafts without changing mixture and lemme know if you works.
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Mixture is a separate issue from prop pitch, but I tested it.

 

Spawned in a Yak-1B and switched to MEC.  It defaulted to 60% mixture and was left there.  I also left prop pitch at 100%.  I climbed without issue until 6800 meters where the engine started to waver, but kept climbing.  I then dove down to the airfield still at 100% prop, the governor kept the rpm @ 2700 the whole time, there was no over-speed of the prop even a near-wing ripping speed.

 

So, in the Yak1-B, mixture at 60% is good from 200 meters to 6800 meters.

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Is it possible to (at the start of a match) open radiator flaps fully after takeoff and then swap back to automatic engine controls? This would be helpful to all low alt planes that suffer spontaneous oil overheat at low alt and 100% throttle (A36, B25, A20G sometimes, B5N2, B7A2 currently).

When I play a dedicated lawnmower plane, I simply want to not have to worry about oil overheat when I could be jumped at any second by enemy fighters. I just want to open the radiator flaps fully, switch back to AEC and know that they'll stay open.

And also, why does opening radiator flaps do nothing for coolant water? This would be particularly helpful to the Me410B6/R3, the Stukas, and any other plane that can be plagued with overheat issues rather easily (like one 7.7 bullet I barely register causing a water leak and immediate rtb for the 410).
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Is it possible to (at the start of a match) open radiator flaps fully after takeoff and then swap back to automatic engine controls? This would be helpful to all low alt planes that suffer spontaneous oil overheat at low alt and 100% throttle (A36, B25, A20G sometimes, B5N2, B7A2 currently).

When I play a dedicated lawnmower plane, I simply want to not have to worry about oil overheat when I could be jumped at any second by enemy fighters. I just want to open the radiator flaps fully, switch back to AEC and know that they'll stay open.

And also, why does opening radiator flaps do nothing for coolant water? This would be particularly helpful to the Me410B6/R3, the Stukas, and any other plane that can be plagued with overheat issues rather easily (like one 7.7 bullet I barely register causing a water leak and immediate rtb for the 410).


If you open radiator fully and then switch to AEC the AEC will put the radiator on a position which works best for your engine and also makes sure it reduces minimum performance of aircraft. So it means it won't stay at 100%.

And coming to water of yoynfly Bf-109s with closed radiators you can see the difference especially on maps like Scilly.
The amount of time required for the water to cool takes longer and the oil overheats quite fast on tropical maps like Scilly

But the true purpose of the radiator is to reduce the drag of your aircraft.
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But the true purpose of controlling manually the radiator is to reduce the drag of your aircraft.

Fixed for you.

 

Unless I missed something about the main purpose of a radiator in my classes.

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Fixed for you.

Unless I missed something about the main purpose of a radiator in my classes.


Thats how i use it i overwep my engine a lot inturn killing it
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Hey guys, i have problem with MEC on my Bf109G/La5fn. On my spitfire i close radiators and set propeller on 100% and climb well. Nice. On my Bf109G seting propeler results in engine death...how to proper mec on 109?

the second question: i climb with La5fn. I turn MEC on and engine immediately loose power...why so? I always thought that turning MEC on just gives you manual control of engine but doesn't change anything on engine itself...what am I doing worng?

Edited by Dropman12
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